Caresheet
Habitat/Enclosures
Enclosures for gargoyle geckos remain the same for all ages, however sizing will vary. Young gargoyle geckos should be kept in smaller enclosures to reduce stress. Please check our chart listed below to see how we break up enclosure sizes.
Age
Hatchling/Young (1-15 grams): 6 Quart
Juvenile/Adult (15+ grams) : 30 Quart
Adult/Breeding Pair: 70 Quart
All enclosures must have limited ventilation in order to maintain humidity. After many years of working with Exoterra tanks and other glass tanks, we found the best way to keep humidity in was to use plastic tubs (can be found anywhere). We drill four holes about ½ “ in diameter on each side of the tank (two on top, two on bottom). This ensures that they get enough airflow without diminishing their humidity levels. Depending on the humidity levels in your location, you may drill more or less of these holes. Fully screened tanks are not suitable for this species. You should mist your gecko’s enclosure 1-2 times per day. Do not over mist (ex: If you sprayed that morning, and later that night the tank hasn’t dried, you should wait until the next morning to mist again). If you over mist this can lead to mold growth and respiratory issues. It would be recommended however it is optional to have a water bowl in their enclosure. Some like to drink from it, but most of them get their water intake from misting and the droplets they can drink. This is how they drink water in the wild. Next you need to be concerned with hiding spots, climbing/perching areas, and foliage. These create visual barriers and if done properly it can help create an environment that allows them to mimic their natural behaviors. For the substrate at the bottom of the tank, we use paper towels. They make clean-up easier, and are completely safe for your gecko because there's nothing for them to mistakenly ingest. All in all Gargoyle geckos are a hardy species and one of the easiest starter pets to keep.
Humidity
Humidity is very important for your gargoyle gecko so make sure to mist their enclosure 1-2 times a day, depending on how well the moisture holds. Be aware that you do not want their tank to be constantly wet, this leads to bacteria and mold growth which can cause problems for your gecko. To prevent this from happening, only mist when the tank is completely dried out. Having a suitable humidity level helps them stay hydrated and allows them to shed quicker and easier. You will especially want to monitor the humidity for young geckos. As a result of not having proper humidity the most common issue tends to be stuck shed on the gecko’s feet, face and tail. Caught early enough, stuck shed can usually be fixed by placing your gecko in a small container with a small amount of lukewarm water. After about 20 minutes, check to see if the skin has loosened, and if not then keep repeating until the shed has become unstuck.
Temperature
Room temperature is generally suitable for gargoyle geckos as long as it falls between 65℉ and 84℉. Anything warmer or cooler than that and you are going to need to supplement the room with a heater or A/C fan to maintain a steady comfortable temp. We usually bring a heater into the gecko room around September/October and take it out around April/May when it starts to warm up.
Feeding
Gargoyle geckos are omnivores mainly feeding on fruit, insects, nectar and occasionally members of their own species. In captivity they are mainly fed a variety of pre-made diet’s that incorporate mostly all of the nutrition your gecko needs. Some great pre-made diet brands are “Pangea” and “Repashy” and supply an array of different flavors. It is also very important to give your geckos additional protein via crickets/dubia roaches. This can help your gecko grow twice as fast. Lastly, make sure to get a good calcium additive. For any females that are laying eggs this is extra important to do once a week or bi weekly. We recommend “Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3”. You should feed your gecko every other day or every 2 days. We use plastic bottle caps and “Pangea Small Biodegradable Gecko Food/Water Cups” for food bowls, these are easy to find and dispose of.
Background
Gargoyle geckos (Rhacodactylus auriculatus) also known as the Knob-Headed Giant Gecko are native to New Caledonia, which is a chain of islands centered amongst Australia, New Zealand and Fiji. They reside in the southern regions of this island occupying trees, scrubs, and humid forests. R. auriculatus was discovered in 1869 by a French herpetologist, Arthur Bavay. They are a semi-arboreal species, residing in the trees and also coming down to the ground to rest during the day. Although they are a nocturnal species, they can occasionally be seen active during the day resting upon branches or the forest floor. This is an omnivorous species which feeds on fruits, nectars, insects, and even small rodents and lizards. Gargoyle geckos will grow to reach an average length of 6”-10” and weight of 70 grams, but will vary. Their lifespan in the wild isn’t clear as of now, but held in captivity they will live 15-20 years. As for their conservation status, the IUCN lists R. auriculatus as being of “least concern”, seemingly due to their stable population. Past illegal trade has been greatly reduced because of how easily they can be bred in captivity, so there is less need to harvest from the wild as there had been in the past.
Potential health issues/problems
Though gargoyle geckos are resilient creatures, you should be aware of their potential health issues.
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Dehydration: Symptoms include stuck shed, sunken eyes, and skin that stays wrinkled up abnormally. This can happen if the temperature is too high and/or there’s a lack of humidity.
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Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS): Symptoms include gecko’s tail hanging over while upside down or sideways. This can happen from sleeping upside down too much or from a birth deformity. If you notice this beginning to develop, try to introduce vertical branches and resting spots, this will encourage them not to sleep upside down. Make sure to contact your local Exotic Reptile Vet if you have questions or concerns.
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Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Symptoms include curved limbs and a wavy tail. This can happen if your gecko naturally has a calcium or vitamin D3 deficiency , or if they aren’t getting adequate amounts through their diet. You can supplement with “Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3”. Make sure to contact your local Exotic Reptile Vet if you have questions or concerns.
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Stuck Shed: Symptoms include shedding skin stuck or dry upon the gecko’s body or around the eyes/toes. This happens when there isn’t enough humidity. If this happens make sure to place your gecko in a small container with a small amount of lukewarm water in it. Let your gecko stay in here for ~10-20 minutes and reassess.
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Parasites: Symptoms include runny stool, presence of parasites (worms) in stool or around anal vent, loss of appetite and lethargy. This can happen from introducing a new gecko into your group or by feeding your geckos insects from the store that had parasites in them. We recommend using paper towels as substrate because it makes it easier to see if the geckos do have parasites in their stool. If you believe your gecko has parasites, collect a stool sample and bring it to your local exotic reptile vet. They will prescribe a dewormer (Fenbendazole 10% 100mg/ml) to you if necessary. Make sure to contact your local Exotic Reptile Vet if you have questions or concerns.
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Tail Loss: If you notice your gecko has dropped its tail, do not be alarmed. This is very common and their tails will grow back. This can happen if your gecko is suddenly grabbed, squeezed, or pinched, or if they’re breeding. It is important to keep the spot where the tail dropped clean to prevent infection. We recommend placing your gecko in a sterilized bin with paper towels as a substrate.
